Digby - free pattern

Size
For 1-2 (3-4) years
21 (23) inch chest
8 (9) inches in length from underarm to hem
7 (8) inches from underarm to sleeve cuff
Gauge
8 stitches/inch
10 rows/inch

Needles
 US size 2 circulars and dpns

Yarn
2 (3) balls Knitpicks Comfy in Whisper (Color A) (fingering weight, 218 yards per skein)
1 (1) ball Knitpicks Stroll fingering weight in Sprinkle Heather (Color B) (you will only use a tiny amount)

Extras
Stitch markers, tapestry needle, row counter

Key
Kfb - knit into the front and back of the first stitch on left hand needle, creating an increase of 1 stitch.
Knitted cast on - with RS facing, knit into the first stitch on left needle. Rather than slipping the new loop off you slide it onto the left needle, creating a new stitch.
C2R - knit the slipped stitch on the left needle, passing in front of the first stitch, then knit the first stitch and slip both off the needle together
C2L - knit into the back of the second stitch on the left needle, passing behind the slipped stitch, then knit into the back of the slipped stitch and slip both off the needle together

Neck
CO 40 (45) stitches in color A. Do not join in round yet. Stitches will be worked flat at first.
Knit 2 stitches, PM A, Knit 7 stitches, PM B, Knit 22 (27)stitches, PM B, Knit 7 stitches, PM A, Knit 2 stitches.
Purl one row.
Row 1: Knit 2 stitches, slip marker A, kfb, Knit to one stitch before marker B, kfb, slip marker, kfb, Knit to one stitch before next marker B, kfb, slip marker, kfb, Knit to within one stitch of marker A, kfb, slip marker, knit remaining stitches.
Row 2: Purl one row.
Repeat these two rows a total of 30 times (2 stitches on each end, 37 for each sleeve, 52 (57) for back)

Row 3: Right side row - CO 50 (55) stitches for the front neckline using a knitted cast on. Knit across these new stitches and 1 stitch before first marker A. Kfb, slip marker A, kfb, knit to within 1 stitch of first marker B, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to within one stitch of next B marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to one stitch before marker A (which now signifies the beginning of round), kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit remaining 1 stitch.
Row 4: Join work in the round and knit one row plain.

Row 5: kfb before and after each marker
Row 6:  knit across
Repeat rows 5 & 6 until you have a total of 61 (71) stitches for each sleeve.

Row 7: Slip marker for beginning of round, kfb, knit across front stitches to one stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, place sleeve stitches on hold, remove marker, kfb, knit across back stitches to one stitch before marker, kfb, remove marker, place sleeve stitches on hold
Row 8: Knit across
Row 9: Slip round marker, kfb, knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, kfb, knit to 1 stitch before end, kfb

Row 10: Knit across

You should now have 80 (100) stitches for the back of the sweater and 82 (102) for the front. Slip one from the front so there are 81 (101) on each side. Work in stockinette 'til body measures 6 (7) inches from underarm.

Row 1: Knit across front 81 (101) stitches, turn work
Row 2: Knit first 5 stitches, purl to last 5 stitches, knit to end
Row 3: Knit across
Row 4: Knit first 5 stitches, purl to last 5 stitches, knit to end
Row 5: Knit in color B
Row 6: Knit 6, *K3, P3, K4* to last 5 stitches, knit to end
Row 7: Switch to Color A, Knit 5, *K4, slip 3 purlwise with yarn at back, K3* to last 6 stitches, knit to end
Row 8: Knit 5, Purl 1, *P3, slip 3 purlwise with yarn in front, P4* to last 5 stitches, knit to end
Row 9: Knit 5, *K4, slip 3 purlwise with yarn at back, K3* to last 6 stitches, knit to end
Row 10: Knit 5, Purl 1, *P3, slip 3 purlwise with yarn in front, P4* to last 5 stitches, knit to end
Row 11: Knit 5, *K3, C2R, slip 1 purlwise with yarn at back, C2L, K2* to last 6 stitches, knit to end
Row 12: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, knit to end
Row 13: Knit across
Row 14: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, knit to end
Row 15: Knit in color B
Row 16: Knit 5, Purl 1, *P1, K7, P2* to last 5 stitches, knit to end. Change to Color A.
Row 17: Knit 5, *slip 2 purlwise, K7, slip 1 purlwise* to last 6 stitches, slip 1 purlwise, knit to end
Row 18: Knit 5, slip 1 purlwise, *slip 1 purlwise, P7, slip 2 purlwise* to last 5 stitches, knit to end
Row 19: Knit 5, *slip 2 purlwise, K7, slip 1 purlwise* to last 6 stitches, slip 1 purlwise, knit to end
Row 20: Knit 5, slip 1 purlwise, *slip 1 purlwise, P7, slip 2 purlwise* to last 5 stitches, knit to end
Row 21: Knit 5, *slip 1 purlwise, C2L, K5, C2R* to last 6 stitches, slip 1 purlwise, knit 5
Row 22: Knit 5, purl to last 5 stitches, knit to end
Row 23: Knit all stitches
Row 24: Knit all stitches
Row 25: Knit all stitches
Row 26: Knit all stitches
Row 27: BO

Repeat rows 1 - 27 for the back of the sweater.

Sleeves
Using dpns, pick up and knit sleeve stitches, picking up 2 extra under the arm to prevent a gap. Place marker for beginning of round. K2tog at the end of every other round twice until back to the original 61 (71) stitches. Work in stockinette 'til sleeves measure 5 (6) inches long. You will now knit the sleeve cuffs flat. Knit to end of round, turn work. Work rows 2 - 14 of pattern, knit 4 rows of garter stitch and BO.

Neckline
Using Color B pick up and knit 50 (55) stitches from front neckline, PM, 22 from left edge, 38 (41) from back of neck, and 22 from right edge. PM for beginning of round.
Row 1: Work in K2 P2 rib while decreasing 1 stitch before and after each marker

Row 2: Knit the knit stitches and purl the purled stitches

Repeat these two rows a total of 3 times and BO in pattern.
Weave in the ends and you're done :)

About my patterns

            I want to offer the free patterns on this blog to whomever may want them. Just give credit where credit is due. That means you can knit them up for yourself, knit them and sell the finished product, print them out and distribute them, all for free. You cannot pretend that you wrote them or sell my original patterns.

            In regards to the paid patterns available on my Etsy, the same applies as above except please do not share the patterns themselves.  I have no problem whatsoever if you want to knit these up and make some side cash from the finished product.  What I make (the pattern) is mine and what you make (the finished object) is yours to do with as you see fit.

 

Emerald Summer - free pattern

Yarn
 DK weight cotton, 170 yards in color A, 60 yards in color B

Gauge
 22 stitches and 32 rows = 4 in x 4 in

Needles
size 5 circulars
Finished Measurements
chest - 20 inches
hem to underarm - 8 inches


Stitch Key
Cross 2L - Knit into the back of the second stitch on the left needle, then knit into the back of the first stitch on the left needle. Slip both stitches off the needle at the same time.
Cross 2R- Knit into the second stitch on the left needle, then knit the first stitch on the left needle. Slip both stitches off the needle at the same time.

CO 132 stitches in color A. Place marker for beginning of row and join in the round.

Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Purl
Row 3: Switch to color B and Knit
Row 4: Purl
Row 5: Switch to color A and Knit
Row 6: Purl
Row 7: Switch to color B and Knit
Row 8: Purl
Row 9: Switch to color A and Knit
Row 10: Purl

Row 11: Switch to color B. Knit 66 stitches and place marker. Knit to end of row.

Decrease 1 stitch after each marker every 8 rows 7 times, until 118 stitches on needles. Work one more decrease round (116 stitches).

Switch to color A.
Row 1: Cross 2L across all stitches
Row 2: Cross 2R across all stitches
Repeat rows 1 and 2 once more.

BO 12 stitches, knit 34 stitches plain, BO remaining stitches. You will now work the remaining 34 stitches flat.


Change to color B.
Row 1: Knit across
Row 2: Knit 4, purl to last 4 stitches, knit 4
Repeat these 2 rows 11 more times.

Work 4 rows of garter stitch, beginning with a RS knit row. Bind off all stitches except the first and last 4, leaving you with 4 live stitches on each end of the row. These will be the straps. Knit (8 inches) in garter stitch for each strap and BO.
Cross straps and sew to back of top.
Weave in all ends.